Jonathan Kauffman: Hog and Rocks Avoids Most Dude-Food Clichés
- John Birdsall
In today’s “Eat” column, SF Weekly restaurant critic Jonathan Kauffman traces the rise of places that straddle the line between food and drink. Kauffman:
“Something is shifting in San Francisco. The secret cabal that sets our food trends has decreed that every new restaurant have an ambitious cocktail program. What with this diktat and the lingering influence of 2005′s gastropub fad, the city is seeing a wave of places trying to be bars and restaurants at the same time.”
Enter Hog and Rocks, a collaboration between Maverick’s Scott Youkilis and bar guy Eric Rubin. Where Youkilis could easily wallow in dude food ― bar food’s easy fallback, thick with wings and sliders ― the chef pushes farther, curating a multiculti selection of hams, alongside vivid salads and other dishes. And even though some of Youkilis’s bistro efforts fall flatter than a bro who’s pounded one Jameson shot too many, Kauffman finds enough to like here.